A Godmother’s Bequest: Princess Marie Louise’s Cartier Indian Tiara

From left to right - Princess Marie Louise wearing the Cartier Indian Tiara during the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953; Prince Richard, Duke of Gloucester, who inherited the tiara; Birgitte, Duchess of Gloucester. Images from Wikimedia Commons.

Princess Marie Louise was one of the most well-loved members of the British Royal Family. Born on August 12, 1872, she was the second daughter and fourth child of Prince Christian of Schleswig-Holstein and his wife, Princess Helena of the United Kingdom, daughter of Queen Victoria. The family lived close to Queen Victoria, thus, the princess and her siblings grew up under the watchful eyes of her grandmother. In 1891, she married the "very tall and good-looking” Prince Aribert of Anhalt but their relationship did not take off and their marriage was annulled. Though the cause of dissolution was never revealed, it is believed that Aribert's alleged homosexuality or bisexuality—specifically an act of indiscretion with a male attendant—played a part. Later, in 1917, Marie Louise would be stripped of her birth title, giving her and her older sister, Princess Helena Victoria, the peculiar distinction of being royals with royal titles but without any particular royal family. In the words of their cousin, King George V, they were “Helena Victoria and Marie Louise of Nothing.”

Despite the failure of her marriage and the loss of her territorial designation, Princess Marie Louise remained a colorful royal figure and maintained a fortune in jewelry! The most magnificent was the Cartier Indian Diamond Tiara. This Indian-inspired tiara of diamonds, pearls and sapphires was designed by Henri Lavabre, who worked exclusively for Cartier between 1906 and 1921. No proof shows when did the princess acquire this jewel. Considering Lavabre’s tenure at Cartier, Marie Louise may have purchased this piece long after her marriage with Aribert ended.

Geoffrey Munn in Tiaras: A History of Splendour writes that the sparkler is an "impressive diadem in the Indian taste, set with diamonds, sapphires and pearls. Each of the sapphires has been individually cut to fit the composition. The graduated pinnacles appear to be hatched by sapphires on the right-hand side. This may be a clever visual pun or it may be a genuine misinterpretation of the artist's work in the original design. Although this technique is rare it is not unique and appears from time to time in the photographic records of Cartier Paris. So too does another version of this jewel and for these reasons an attribution to the famous firm seems safe in this instance."

Princess Marie Louise had worn the Cartier Indian Tiara in major royal events. She had lived long enough to see five monarchs ascend the British throne, attending the coronations of King Edward VII, King George V, King George VI and Queen Elizabeth II. For the 1953 coronation, Princess Marie Louise wore the tiara together with the diamond bracelets (convertible from a choker) which was given to her by Prince and Princess Christian on her wedding day.

She died in 1956, shortly after her memoirs, My Memories of Six Reigns, was published.. She left her jewels to many people, including Queen Elizabeth II. The Cartier Indian Tiara was willed to Marie Louise's godson, Prince Richard of Gloucester, who unexpectedly succeeded his father as Duke of Gloucester after the death of his older brother, Prince William of Gloucester. Since then, his wife, the Duchess of Gloucester, has worn  the tiara in many important state events.

You can also read the articles written about the Cartier Diamond Tiara Order of Splendor here, here, and here.